Expedition to Cho Oyu & Shisha Pangma
The objectives of the expedition:
Our main objective is to climb a new route in an alpine style on the south face of Shisha Pangma. We will face more than two thousand meters of climbing with average incline of 50°, including several sections of steep rock and ice. However, the possibility to attempt the route depends on the conditions on the face, which are unpredictable. We may have to resort to plan B, which would be to climb one of the routes already established on this face.
We have yet to decide whether we would climb as a four man team or split into two teams. We count on four days on the wall. The gear would only include the indispensable: three days worth of food, stove, sleeping bag, spare gloves and climbing gear.
Climbing in alpine style requires perfect acclimatisation. We have decided to acclimatize by climbing the normal route on Cho Oyu, which is ideal for this purpose. We expect to spend a month on Cho Oyu and than move to Shisha Pangma.
After the end of the expedition and a month rest at home, some of the members of the expedition will travel to Karakorum, to make use of their acquired acclimatisation. The goals are as always grand. Hámor, Kopold and Morawski plan to attempt an alpine style first ascent on the west face of K2. Hámor and Morawski would first acclimatize by climbing Nanga Parbat before moving to the K2 base camp on Savoy glacier.
Several Slovaks would make their attempts at the highest mountains this year; Ihope that everybody would return home in good health.
CHO OYU 8201m
- region of the Tibet
- the first ascent on the summit October 19th 1954 Herbert Tichy, Sepp Jochler (Austria), Pasang Dava Lama (Nepal)
- the ascent of the northwest crest, long 2200m and mainly in the snow with short mixed (ice/rock) section
- the base camp is in 5600 meters
SHISHA PANGMA 8046m
Date of the expedition: March 10th 2007 - May 10th 2007
- region of the Tibet
- the first ascent on the summit May 2nd 1964 Chinese expedition leaded by Hsu Chingom
- the first ascent southwest face May 25th - 28th 1982 MacIntyre, Baxter, Scott
- the British route has long 2200m with 50 degrees slopes
- the base camp is in 5400 meters